Page 72 - HAND EMBROIDERY ARTISAN_TT

Handicrafts & Carpets Related Theory for Exercise 1.10.59-63
Hand Embroidery Artisan - Rafugari and Finishing & Packing

Rafugari and it techniques

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• define rafugari
• state the tools and material used in rafugari.

Rafugari is a beautiful and skilled traditional Indian 3 Embroidery-based mending
textile craft, specifically a form of hand embroidery and Decorative approach where the mending is intentionally
visible mending that originated in Kashmir. The word visible and artistic.
“Rafugar” means a darning artisan, and Rafugari is the
art of invisible mending or repair, mainly practiced on fine Flowers, motifs, or geometric patterns are stitched over
woolen fabrics like Pashmina shawls, silk, or Kani shawls. or around the tear.
What is Rafugari? This has been adapted into contemporary visible
It is the art of mending torn or worn-out fabric so skillfully mending movements.
that the damage becomes invisible to the naked eye. 4 Patch Rafugari
Traditionally used to repair high-value textiles like A small patch (ideally from the same or similar fabric) is
handwoven or embroidered shawls. stitched onto the area.
Today, it is gaining recognition as a sustainable fashion Edges are folded in and invisibly hemmed.
technique giving old clothes new life.
Techniques in Rafugari Tools & Materials
1 Invisible darning (Traditional Rafugari) 1 Fine embroidery needles
Threads are drawn from the fabric itself or carefully 2 Matching silk/woolen threads
matched to the weave. 3 Tweezers, magnifying glass (for precision)

The weaver/darner reconstructs the warp and weft to 4 Darning mushroom (optional)
replicate the exact pattern or texture.
Often done on looms or by hand with fine needles and 5 Traditional handloom (for large repairs)
magnifying glasses. Modern usage
2 Surface darning 1 Reviving vintage or heirloom textiles
Used when the tear or hole is large. 2 Upcycling damaged garments as a form of slow

Threads are woven across the damaged area in a basket- fashion
weave style. 3 Artistic or visible mending for jackets, jeans, shawls,
Involves more texture, sometimes slightly visible, but still or scarves
clean and elegant.
Washing and packing
Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• state the washing process for sozni shawl
• state the packing process for sozni shawl.

Sozni shawls those beautifully hand-embroidered Check embroidery condition: Make sure the threads
Kashmiri pieces require delicate handling, especially are secure and colors are fast.
during washing and packing to preserve their intricate Mark defects (if any): Torn threads, stains, or loose
work and fine wool (usually pashmina or fine wool ends are noted.
blends).
Here’s a breakdown of the washing and packing 2 Gentle hand washing
process for Sozni shawls, typically done at the artisan Use cold or lukewarm water: Hot water can shrink or
or manufacturer level before they reach customers or damage fine wool.
export markets: Mild detergent or wool-safe liquid soap: Avoid harsh
Washing process (Sozni Shawls) chemicals to protect fabric and embroidery.
1 Inspection before washing Soft hand agitation only: No wringing, twisting, or
scrubbing this maintains shape and embroidery integrity.

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